What many visitors to Panama don't realize is
that just at the western tip of the republic, lies an undiscovered land brimming
with promises of wildlife, adventure, exotic culture and enchanting mountain
villages that will make you long to extend your stay. This tropical mountain
paradise pleasantly surprises those who don't expect to find a home away from
home.
Bordering on the Pacific side of the
Continental Divide, undoubtedly luring most to Chiriqui are the storybook
villages nestled along the craggy flanks of Baru Volcano, Panama's highest peak
and only Volcano at 3,478 meters. No stranger to the visitor, Chiriqui has long
charmed Panamanians from the capital to its cool mountain villages for a respite
from the daily grind and heat of Panama City. A-frame Swedish style houses adorn
the landscape; remnants and evidence of those Europeans who came to Panama to
work on the canal and railroad projects and surprisingly found themselves at
home in the pristine highlands of Chiriqui. As of late, the serene beauty of
forested and flower dotted hillsides have once again caused a great many of
those internationals "just passing through" to actually set up house and take on
new roles as inn keepers and coffee farmers.
Chiriqui is considered first and foremost to
be Panama's breadbasket. The slopes of Baru Volcano are covered in a rich, black
and fertile soil that has inevitably made Chiriqui's highlands the agricultural
lifeline for the rest of Panama. Virtually everything and anything seems to grow
in colorful abundance; everything from potatoes, intoxicatingly sweet oranges,
vivid and exotic flowers, strawberries, and, of course, the province's most
recent source for pride, highland coffee whose induction to the international
coffee arena has been well received; all enjoy Chiriqui's rich conditions and
all thrive upon Chiriqui's soil.
Baru Volcano lies smack in the center of the
province flanked on either side by the small and picturesque towns of Boquete
to the east, and Cerro Punta to the west. Both are bustling agricultural towns
where rosy cheeked people bundled in sweaters meticulously tend their gardens
and farms. Boquete's people mostly cultivate coffee and during the months of
October to February trucks can be seen rumbling down the streets heavy with red
and succulent coffee cherries. The entire town of Boquete takes on a joyous
ambiance which culminates in the yearly Boquete Coffee and Flower
Festival during the month of January. This week-long festival shows off
flowers imported from Europe and carefully nursed into bloom in Boquete, as well
as the fair's newest addition: the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP)
coffee hut which has been hosting their yearly coffee cupping (akin to wine
tasting) featuring prestigious cuppers from all over the
world.
Known as the "Valley of the Moon" to the
natives, Chiriqui is also home to a large population of Ngobe-Bugle (Guaymi)
Indians. Panama's largest tribe, they number about 125,000 and although found in
large groups in Chiriqui's eastern town of Tole, many Ngobes make the yearly
migration to Chiriqui's highlands in search of jobs as coffee pickers. A
strenuous and labor-intense job, coffee picking for the Ngobes is the financial
and social event of the year since they make the bulk of their money picking
coffee and often return home with new wives. The Ngobes still speak their own
language which they refer to as el dialecto and the women can be seen in
colorful and beautiful hand-stitched dresses called naguas. Using the
most vivid hues of blues, reds and greens, the dresses are adorned with
triangular trimming and are certainly works of art. The Ngobes can also be seen
using woven handbags called chacaras which are also quite lovely and
which, along with the naguas, can be found for sale in the local shops
along Boquete's main drag.
The towns of Cerro Punta and Bambito on the
Western side of Baru, offer vistas of manicured agricultural farms, wild flower
farms and gurgling brooks and streams. At 1900 meters and like Boquete, this
area has a brisk and cool climate that ranges from 55-70 Fahrenheit. Cerro Punta
mainly produces flowers for export, and produce such as lettuce, tomatoes and
cabbages. Along a drive through Cerro Punta one can see the renowned horse farms
that breed and train Panama's prized thoroughbred
racehorses.
Bird watching in both Boquete and Cerro Punta
is quite phenomenal. Trails crisscross their way into these lush and verdant
cloud forests and continually awe visitors with their surreal like beauty. Upon
reaching higher levels of the cloud forest one is struck with the ethereal sound
of the Black-Faced Solitaire; a bird whose song is as lovely as the sound of
chimes. The Los Quetzales trail is a popular path for visitors and connects the
two towns of Boquete and Cerro Punta along the northern ridge of the Baru
Volcano. An easier hike from Cerro Punta to Boquete (since the former is at
higher elevation), this trail is often times a strenuous but nonetheless
beautiful hike offering excellent birding opportunities where such birds as the
Emerald Tucanette and the sought after Resplendent Quetzal inhabit the cool
jungles and flit through their canopy of avocado and orchid laden trees. The
forests surrounding these towns are also home to pumas, as well as the new
world's largest herbivore, the tapir. By all means, consider yourself lucky if
you should happen to come across one.
For those in search of excitement and a
reawakening of their system, Chiriqui's perfect combination of highlands and
abundant rainfall set the stage for world class whitewater rafting. Descending
from the flanks of the volcano, these rivers have been hailed by many a rafter
to be some of the best stretches of river throughout Central America. Both day
trips and multi-day raft trips are offered on the Chiriqui and Chiriqui Viejo
rivers as well as various river classification levels (class III-class IV
predominate). And if the excitement of whitewater has piqued your interest for a
more personalized sort of water sport, three day kayaking clinics taught by
stateside instructors will set you on your way down these
rivers.
Although not necessarily conducive to nature
watching (one is usually more concentrated on running the rapids), these river
trips offer rare glimpses of remote areas of Chiriqui that in some instances are
virtually only accessible by your river craft. Some of these rivers take you
through untouched gorges and to little known but spectacular waterfalls that
tower above you as they cascade into the river.
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